Aboard Astraea

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December 1, 2015
by Nate

Santa Rosalía

Sunrise on the approach to Santa Rosalía

Sunrise on the approach to Santa Rosalía

We sailed all night long on our way to Santa Rosalía. A few hours before sunrise our boat speed dropped to about two knots and I turned on the motor after we passed Isla Tortuga (Turtle Island). We docked at the Fonatur Marina inside the safe manmade harbor.

When we arrived Cliff and MaryAnn from S/V Carola were the only other cruisers in the harbor.

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Santa Rosalía is different than all the other towns in Baja because of it’s foreign influence. It’s main industry was copper mining with the minerals being exported to Europe. Wooden timber was brought in from the Pacific Northwest and machinery imported from Europe. The architecture is different, the streets are paved and there are sidewalks with wheelchair ramps on every corner.

The main church downtown. Designed by Gustave Eiffel, the same guy who designed the Eiffel Tower.

The main church downtown. Designed by Gustave Eiffel, the same guy who designed the Eiffel Tower.

It was just after Dia de Muertos and art was on display made by the local schoolkids

It was just after Dia de los Muertos and art was on display made by the local schoolkids

Paved streets and houses with air conditioning

Paved streets and houses with air conditioning

OK, not every street was wheelchair accessible

OK, not every street was wheelchair accessible

The wooden buildings in town are painted bright colors.

The wooden buildings in town are painted bright colors.

Tree lined streets

Tree lined streets

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The local fire department and ambulance

The local fire department and ambulance

A large library

A large library

We made a stop for ice cream to celebrate our successful crossing of the Sea of Cortez

We made a stop for ice cream to celebrate our successful crossing of the Sea of Cortez

The hospital. Painted outside the building is an encouragement to wash your hands with soap and water. When I took Sully inside the use the bathroom there wasn't any soap to be found.

The hospital. Painted outside the building is an encouragement to wash your hands with soap and water. When I took Sully inside the use the public bathroom there wasn’t any soap to be found.

We hiked up the hill overlooking the town and looked down at the marina

We hiked up the hill overlooking the town and looked down at the marina

The old mining equipment, a major part of the town's history, has been preserved in static displays throughout the town

The old mining equipment, a major part of the town’s history, has been preserved in static displays throughout the town

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We walked through the old copper refinery. All kinds of equipment is still there

We walked through the old copper refinery. All kinds of equipment is still there

More of the refinery

More of the refinery

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The area by the old refinery is a museum

The area by the old refinery is now a museum

There is a large panga fishing fleet based here

There is a large panga fishing fleet based here

The aftermath of Hurricane Odile is still evident in the harbor

The aftermath of Hurricane Odile is still evident in the harbor

We walked out on the long breakwater around the marina. The breakwater was made from leftover slag from the copper foundry.

We walked out on the long breakwater around the marina. The breakwater was made from leftover slag from the copper foundry.

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Panorama of the harbor area

This is a close up of the slag from the copper refinery that makes up the breakwater

This is a close up of the slag from the copper refinery that makes up the breakwater. It looks like obsidian or glass.

We had awesome hotdogs with everything downtown across from the church

We had awesome hotdogs with everything for dinner downtown across from the church

Sully took this selfie, probably his first

Sully took this selfie, probably his first

Cute puppies in the abandoned buildings near the harbor

Cute puppies in the abandoned buildings near the harbor

Sully thought they were cute

Sully thought the pups were cute

We took a hike up the hill on the south side of town

We took a hike up the hill on the south side of town

View from the top of the hike

View from the top of the hike

The cross says, "I am the bread of life"

The cross says, “I am the bread of life”

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Then we walked back down toward the main road

Then we walked back down toward the main road

It was still very windy when we walked all the way down the malecon

It was still very windy when we walked all the way down the malecon. Even on a sailboat there can be too much wind, so we decided to stay in port instead of sailing south.

The black beach south of the marina

The black beach south of the marina

The Navy has five boats stationed here. Two are marine rescue boats

The Navy has five boats stationed here. Two are marine rescue boats

I got to trade shirts with Francisco, a Mexican Navy sailor

I got to trade Navy shirts with Francisco, a Mexican Navy sailor

We keep track of sully's growth on the inside of the door jam. He's grown a lot since last year!

We keep track of Sully’s growth on the inside of the door jam. He’s grown a lot since last year!

We had a great five day stay in Santa Rosalía and were happy to get back out of the marina and head south. We sailed south bound for Punta Chivato on our way to Bahía Concepción on November 14th.

A beautiful sunset as we cruised across the Sea of Cortez

November 28, 2015
by Nate

San Carlos

We hauled the anchor up after one night in Caleta La Posada and headed in to the inner bay at San Carlos. On the cruiser’s net in the morning we heard there was going to be a dog costume contest at Barracuda Bob’s Cafe at the marina. We went to meet up with our friends from S/V Namaste, John, Cindy and Journey.

Journey and Nanuq from S/V Namaste won the pet costume contest with a fuzzy Jimmy Buffett

Journey and Nanuq from S/V Namaste won the pet costume contest with a furry Jimmy Buffett

On Halloween we met up with our buddy boaters Phil and Debra from S/V Coastal Drifter at their house in San Carlos. They invited us and the gang from S/V Sangvind over for dinner and Trick-or-Treating.

Howdy, it's Sheriff Woody from Toy Story

Ethan and Sully at Ethan's grandparent's casa in San Carlos

Ethan and Sully at Ethan’s grandparent’s casa in San Carlos

Look at all the candy!

Look at all the candy!

The whole gang trick or treating. Ethan from Coastal Drifter, Dyland and Jayden from Sangvind.

The whole gang trick or treating. Ethan from Coastal Drifter, Dylan and Jayden from Sangvind.

There weren’t as many houses giving out treats as the kids would have liked, so we hopped in Sangvind’s van and Franz and Sylvia took us and the kids around to other neighborhoods in San Carlos in search of Halloween candy.

The next night we rode the bus downtown to Guaymas to see the Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) parade.

Post parade Day of the Dead festivities in Guaymas

Post parade Day of the Dead festivities in Guaymas

The town square was decorated with fanciful skulls and skeletons

The town square was decorated with fanciful skulls and skeletons

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The next day we went ashore and hiked up to a cave overlooking the bay.

The anchorage in San Carlos

The anchorage in San Carlos

Inside the cave

Inside the cave

We went for a swim and Sully had fun climbing around on the boom. His balance is much better and he’s our little boat monkey.

Sully's getting more adventurous and did some boom walking

Sully’s getting more adventurous and did some boom walking

On November 5th, we were lucky enough to borrow a car from our friends on Namaste to go into town for parts and groceries. We caught a ride to the dock with our friends Megan and Jonah from Orion because our outboard wasn’t working reliably and they were on a part search as well.

Sully crashed on our drive back from Guaymas

Sully crashed in the back seat with Megan from S/V Orion on our drive back from Guaymas

The next day our fridge broke and I needed more refrigerant, so we borrowed the car again and went searching for refrigerant and a filter dryer assembly for the engine run fridge. Some hardware stores were closed because it was Saturday, but we got lucky and found what we needed. We also went by a giant Guaymas sign that we had never seen before.

Guaymas!

Guaymas!

"S" is for Sully

“S” is for Sully

On Sunday, November 8th we had a good looking weather window to cross the Sea of Cortez so we secured for sea and headed out when the afternoon winds picked up. At first the seas were rough around the point, but after a few hours they settled down and we had a great sail. We were close hauled all the way across to Santa Rosalia. The moon shone bright and the stars were out. It felt wonderful to be underway again. We sailed through the night until the winds dropped off a few hours before dawn. Then I fired up the engine and we motored in to the Fonatur Marina at Santa Rosalia at dawn.

On our way out of San Carlos headed for Santa Rosalia

On our way out of San Carlos headed for Santa Rosalia

A beautiful sunset as we cruised across the Sea of Cortez

A beautiful sunset as we cruised across the Sea of Cortez